Ramen, Pho or Laksa? How the Great Noodle Soups Differ

There is a particular kind of day that only a bowl of noodle soup can fix.

It is usually raining. Work has been heavy. Nobody wants to cook, and nobody quite knows what they want to eat.

Then someone says, “Soup?” and the whole table relaxes.

The trouble starts with the menu. Ramen. Pho. Laksa. They all come in a big bowl with noodles and broth, and they all sound comforting. But order the wrong one for your mood and you will spend the meal wishing you had chosen differently.

We have had all three on grey afternoons, late nights and lazy weekends. Here is how they differ, and how to choose.

01Ramen: Rich, Deep and Deeply Comforting

Where it comes from: Japan, although its roots trace back to Chinese wheat noodles.

The noodles: wheat noodles made with an alkaline mineral water called kansui, which gives them their springy bite and pale yellow colour.

The broth: this is where ramen gets its personality. Broths are simmered for hours, sometimes a whole day, from pork or chicken bones, and then seasoned with a concentrated sauce called tare. The four styles you will see most often:

• Shoyu: soy-based, clear brown, savoury and balanced. A great first ramen.
• Shio: salt-based, the lightest and clearest.
• Miso: fermented soybean paste, nutty and hearty.
• Tonkotsu: pork bones boiled until the broth turns milky white, creamy and very rich.

The toppings: slices of braised pork (chashu), a soft marinated egg with a jammy yolk, spring onions, bamboo shoots, nori, and sometimes a crisp piece of fried chicken in katsu-style bowls.

How it feels: like a warm blanket. Ramen is filling, savoury and slow. The kind of bowl where you finish every last spoon of broth even when more food is on its way.

02Pho: Light, Fragrant and Fresh

Where it comes from: northern Vietnam, early in the twentieth century.

The noodles: soft, flat rice noodles called banh pho. Naturally gluten-free and silky rather than chewy.

The broth: clear and golden, made from beef bones (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga). Charred onion and ginger give it depth, and whole spices such as star anise, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom give it that gentle, perfumed warmth.

The toppings: thin slices of beef or chicken, and then the part that makes pho special: a plate of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, lime wedges and sliced chilli that you add yourself at the table. Thai basil, coriander and mint brighten every spoonful.

How it feels: clean and restoring. Pho is the bowl you want when you are tired but don’t want to feel heavy afterwards. It is also wonderfully personal. No two people at the table finish with the same bowl.

03Laksa: Creamy, Spicy and Bold

Where it comes from: the Peranakan kitchens of Malaysia and Singapore, where Chinese and Malay cooking meet.

The noodles: often a mix of thick rice noodles and yellow egg noodles.

The broth: there are two very different families of laksa, and it helps to know which one you are ordering.

• Curry laksa is the one most restaurants serve. A spice paste of chilli, lemongrass, galangal, shallots and shrimp paste is cooked down and loosened with coconut milk. The result is creamy, spicy and fragrant all at once.
• Assam laksa from Penang is sour rather than creamy, made with tamarind and flaked fish. Tangy, sharp and refreshing.

The toppings: prawns, chicken, fish cakes, tofu puffs that soak up the broth like sponges, bean sprouts, boiled egg and often a spoon of sambal on the side.

How it feels: exciting. Laksa wakes you up. If ramen is a blanket and pho is a deep breath, laksa is a conversation that makes you laugh out loud.

04Ramen vs Pho vs Laksa at a Glance

• Richest: tonkotsu ramen, followed closely by curry laksa.
• Lightest: pho, or shio ramen.
• Spiciest: curry laksa.
• Most customisable: pho, thanks to the herb plate.
• Chewiest noodles: ramen.
• Best for gluten-free diners: pho, as rice noodles contain no wheat. Always confirm with the restaurant, as sauces can contain gluten.
• Best for vegetarians: many restaurants now offer vegetable ramen and vegetarian laksa with a coconut base. Pho is harder to find without meat broth.

05Which Bowl Should You Order Today?

• It is raining and you need comfort: ramen. Shoyu if you are new to it, tonkotsu if you want indulgence.
• You are tired but want to feel light: pho.
• You want something exciting: curry laksa.
• It is hot outside: pho or assam laksa. The freshness and sourness help.
• You are eating with a little one: a mild shoyu ramen or chicken pho. Ask for the bowl to be split. Children love the slippery noodles, and most restaurants are happy to give you a small bowl to share.

06How to Eat a Noodle Soup Properly

Use chopsticks in one hand and the deep soup spoon in the other. Lift some noodles, rest them on the spoon with a little broth, and eat them together.

Slurping is not rude here. In Japan, it is completely normal with ramen and it cools the noodles on the way in.

And always taste the broth first, before adding anything. It tells you everything about the kitchen.